The best way to grow Chillies

Finding the best way

To find the best way to grow Chillies, I decided to have a detailed look into every aspect of growing them. I explored all things Chilli in greater detail. This included seeds, potting mixes, and watering. I also touched on fertilisation. The exercise focuses on starting seeds and what happens after they have germinated. It then continues to when they are potted on for the first time.  In time, the series will be expanded to include a detailed look at what needs to be done when the weather warms up.

This project is being run alongside my venture into growing Rocotos. These are Chillies I am growing for the first time. It made sense to do it in this way, because each step of the growing process is recorded. The Rocoto seeds were planted about a month ago and are currently young seedlings. Some have already been potted on for the first time. This makes these Chillies the ideal choice to use as the testing ground to implement my newly gained knowledge

While I believe my previously published posts on seeds, potting mixes and watering have covered many of the bases, there are still gaps. I am now looking to join the dots. To achieve this, I aim to explore answers to things I am still considering.  I also want to verify the thinking behind decisions I have already made. It will also cover aspects like growing temperatures and other factors that I have not already dealt with. In this way, I aim to improve my Chilli growing technique and learn more about this fascinating subject

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Potting on of the Rocotos

First potting on

Two of my Rocoto Chillies have been potted on. Not for the same reason, though. One was repotted because it is developing its first set of true leaves and has grown taller than its “pot” (see final note). The second, however, was potted on simply because it was in the same space as the first. Somehow I managed to plant two seeds into the eggshell I used to start these seeds. Doing his is usually a standard procedure for me when I start seeds. I typically sow more than one seed into the pod or pellet I use to start seeds, because it is insurance against failed germination. However, in the case of the Rocoto, the seeds‘ quality was exceptional, and I decided to use only one.

This potting-on was an interesting one for me. It is the first time I have repotted from eggshells. It was a bit finicky, and next time I will do things slightly differently. The finickiness came from breaking the shell to do the repotting. Where previously with peat pellets, I would have repotted the seedling still in the pellet. Here, I had to break the shell before I repotted the seedlings.  I wet the soil in the eggshells before breaking them so that it would hold together. But obviously not enough. It broke up when I removed the shell, and I was left with two seedlings with not much soil around them. It made repotting somewhat more difficult. There was a silver lining to this, though. It certainly made separating the seedling easier. That both survived and have taken to their new containers quite  happily.

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Tap water for Chillies. Is it safe ?

Why tap water can be bad

In my last post, I covered potting soil as part of my series on looking into the finer detail of growing Chillies  I developed a new potting soil for potting on.  I have already used some of this soil to pot on my Rocoto Chillies for the first time

As the next part of this exercise, I am looking into water. Up to now, I have used tap water (straight from the tap)  to water my Chillies. However, on doing research, I found it was not the best way to do things. So with this in mind, I will be examining this aspect of Chilli growing in more detail

Many believe chlorine or chloromines added to tap water are harmful to plants.  In fact, this is not true.  If the tap water suppliers (and most do) follow the WHO recommendation of less than 5 ppm tap, from a chlorine or chlorine perspective, tap water is safe for watering plants.  Chlorine / Chloramine levels would have to be over 150 pm before it started becoming toxic to them.

What makes tap water not good for watering Chillies is something else. Ordinary tap water contains a mixture of minerals and salts that can inhibit plant growth. These minerals and salts build up in the soil, raising PH levels over time. This, in turn, will impact a plants’ ability to extract nutrients from the soil. This is known as a nutrient lockout. If a plant cannot get what it needs to thrive, it won’t grow into a healthy plant.

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Potting mixes for Chillies

New mix for the Rocotos

As part of my series, looking into the finer detail of growing Chillies, I am looking into potting soil. It is particularly fitting to do this now, as the Rocoto’s will be potted on for the first time.  To give them the best chance of success, I will use a new potting mix I recently formulated.  I believe it has everything they need to thrive.   I will also use this mix to repot my other Chillies when they require potting on

This potting mix will only be used for intermediate repotting. It will not be used for final potting on. I will use a different formulation for that. Final potting-on is the stage when Chillies get potted on for the last time. They are placed in containers specially prepared with nutrients so the plants can achieve vigorous growth.  The size of these pots is typically twenty to fifty litres (sometimes even bigger). The plants will remain in these containers until the end of the season.

Intermediate potting, on the other hand, is when seedlings are progressively placed into bigger pots as they grow. The reason this is done is to develop the seedling’s root ball.  To do this, seedlings are allowed to grow in smaller pots until their roots start becoming constricted. At this point, they are repotted into a larger pot.  A larger pot allows a plant to rapidly expand its root system, as it now has the space to do so. The new pot should be about twice the size of the previous one, nothing bigger.  As a rule of thumb, I repot my seedlings once they have reached the same height as the container they are planted in.

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Why are my Chilli leaves turning yellow?

Looking into yellowing

Even with the best care in the world, when growing Chillies, you will always have some new mystery appearing out the blue. For me, the latest is that a couple of my seedlings have developed yellow leaves. It is a bit strange, as it only involves three plants and has only happened in one growing station. It’s time to look into why this has happened.

My research has revealed that the causes of leaves turning yellow are wide and varied. Yellowing of leaves can be caused by factors such as nutrition, watering, disease, pests and temperature. Judging by what I have read, I don’t think it is disease that has caused the yellowing on my plants. On my plants, the leaves are yellowed on the outside. They are otherwise quite healthy. With diseases, it seems you need to look for a yellow to brown mottling and leaves to be wilting. Examples of these diseases are bacterial leaf spot, wilt and phytophthora blight.

Luckily, none of my plants have any of these symptoms, so I could only believe it had to be something else.  The only way to reach a final conclusion was by a process of elimination.  I examined each of the remaining potential causes and arrived at what I think is a logical finding. Here’s how I did it

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All about Chilli seeds

Getting seeds right

I want to become far more scientific in my approach to growing Chillies. As part of this, I want to examine everything required to grow them in finer detail. I will examine Chilli seeds, potting soils, water, fertilizers, growing temperatures and anything else needed. The aim here is to get a fresh perspective and build on what I already have learned about growing Chillies.Chilli seeds

Matters surrounding seeds are probably some of the most important decisions that need to be taken in growing Chillies successfully. Seeds are after all the beginning of the whole process, so it is essential to get them right. If you can do that, everything else rest will fall into place.

So, isn’t choosing seeds just about using seeds saved from last year, getting them as a gift from a friend, or buying them online or at a garden centre? Not really!  There is a lot more that needs to be considered. Where we buy our seeds, susceptibility to diseases, which varieties to plant, and growing conditions ( amongst other factors) need to be taken into account.

This post discusses that in detail. It covers what needs to be considered when buying seeds, and also what seeds need to grow healthily and with vigour. It also discusses how important it is to be selective in who and where we get our seeds from if we want to prevent the spread of Chilli plant diseases in the United Kingdom .

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How Chilli heat is measured

What is Capsaicin?

Wilber Scoville

Many Chilli fans will have heard of the Scoville rating system. This system measures the pungency of Chillies in terms of what is known as Scoville heat units. The higher the number of Scoville units (SHU) a Chilli is rated at, the hotter it is. For example, Bell peppers are rated zero SHU, and the Carolina Reaper (officially the world’s hottest Chilli) is between 1500000 and 2150000 SHU.

The Scoville rating system came into existence when Wilbur Scoville, an American pharmacist, developed a method of measuring the heat levels of individual varieties of Chilli in 1912.

Image: Wilber Scoville
Wilber Scoville

The original system involved capsaicin being extracted from dried hot Chillies with alcohol. This was then diluted in sugared water. A panel of five trained men would taste progressively decreased dilutions of the extract until at least three could not detect the presence of capsaicin. Each dilution was measured as 100 SHU. The number of dilutions multiplied by 100 determined the Scoville heat rating of the variety being tested.

Today, testing for capsaicin levels has become far more precise with the use of high-performance liquid chromatography. The results achieved with this method are more reliable because they are not dependent on a subjective perception of heat, but rather on the scientific analysis of capsaicin

Most Scoville rating charts will provide a range of heat units for a Chilli variety. This is because not all Chillies are the same.  Individual pods may contain more or less capsaicin, even though they are of the same variety (and for that matter even from the same plant) . For this reason, more than one pod is tested. Pods are selected from various plants grown together in a single season .  The lowest and highest test results are then provided as the heat range of the particular variety. The middle of the range is the average SHU of the specific variety.

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Germination of rocoto seeds

The Rocotos have hatched

I was delighted a few days ago when I discovered that four of my Rocoto seeds had germinated. I was even more pleased this morning when I found that another had burst into life. Considering I expected germination for these seeds to take up to twenty days, it was a pleasant surprise indeed.

Instead of the time  I had  expected, the first seeds germinated in only ten days. What made the event even more pleasing was that the new peat-free seed starting medium had worked like a charm. To become peat free in my Chilli growing, where previously i would have used peat pellets, I tried something else.

To start these seeds, I used eggshells as seed starting containers.  I filled the shells with John Innes seed starting compost that I had mixed with fifty percent vermiculite.

Okay, I have to admit that not everything was peat free. The John Innes compost contains a little .  It was however, a bag of compost I already had on hand. It will have served no purpose to throw it out. When the bag is finished, I will look at other peat-free starting composts. I have already done some research, and I could possibly make my own seed starting compost by next season.

If you read my last post, you might recall that I also used the egg tray in which the eggs were packed to germinate the seeds. I filled the cavities in the egg trays with a little vermiculite to aid capillary action between the capillary mat in my self-watering propagator. The eggshells were placed on top of the vermiculite in these cavities

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The next step. First potting-on

Well ahead of the game

About three weeks ago, I did my first potting on of seedlings for the 2022 season. I repotted some seedlings that germinated about two weeks ago. They are all about two inches tall.  The seedlings, all Habaneros, were transferred into 2-inch plastic pots.  Repotting seedlings into plastic pots is a deviation from the way I normally do things. Usually, I would have transferred them into peat or fibre pots. However, I used plastic on this occasion, as these seedlings will be kept in pots longer than I have done in the past. I will keep them in small containers to constrain their growth.  Because this is the first time I have started seeds this early, I am not sure how big they will grow between now and next June. I am, however, working on the assumption that plants grow slower in winter, so I am not expecting them to grow very big in this period.

At most, I might pot them on only one more time before they are placed into one-litre pots. In the past, I would have used peat or fibre pots for the seedlings, because this made potting on far easier. It wasn’t necessary to remove the seedlings from these pots. The seedlings could simply be placed into a bigger pot as they were (peat or fibre pots and all). They were then covered with compost and ready for the next stage of their development. This year, however, the game plan is somewhat different.

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Starting Rocoto Chilli seeds

The seeds finally arrived

Last week, I received my Rocoto seeds. I was delighted, as this meant I could finally start my series on the life of a Chilli from seed from when it is planted right up to its use in cooking. I want to map out the journey of a single variety (Rocotos in this case) from the minute I start it, right through to harvest, and then finish with what I do with it in the kitchen.

When I opened the envelope, the seeds were sent in; I found a small bag containing ten black seeds. Black seeds are a characteristic of Rocoto Chillies. The seeds were quite big,   about two to three millimetres wide and long. The seeds certainly looked healthy. So, while I might have paid a lot for them (the postage cost as much as the seeds), I was pleased with the quality

It didn’t take long before I was preparing the growing medium to plant these Chillies. As part of my drive to become peat-free in my Chilli growing, I decided to try something else instead of using peat pellets. The thought of using egg shells immediately came to mind. Somewhere along the line, I had seen an image of them being used for organic seed starting. The idea immediately appealed to me.  Here was a way to achieve peat free growing, but also a way to use a sustainable resource. Read more