What size should my Chillies be?

The size of Chilli plants

A question you might be asking yourself after faithfully tending your seedlings since you planted them in January is what size they should be at this time of the year

The height of chili plants can vary depending on several factors, including the variety of Chili, the growing conditions, and the age of the plant. However, in the UK, at this time of the year (April), Chilli plants are typically around 10-30 centimetres (4-12 inches) tall if they were started from seed in January or FebruaryTime to go outside Chilli plantss

Varieties that grow very large include Rocotos and Dorset Nagas. In the case of Rocotos , they are know n to grow up to thirteen feet in height, similarly a Dorset Naga ( Nigel )  grown by Joy and Michael Michaud at their nursery in Dorset in the UK  grew to the same height. Some Rocotos varieties grow even taller in the wild.

As a general ruler most taller Chillies grow to about 1.3 metres tall (just over four foot) . Chillies that fall into this category in include Aji Amarillos, Aji Limons and Serranos.  Medium size Chillies like Jalapenos and Cayenne and Scotch bonnets grow to about 90 centimetres (about three feet) . Smaller home-grown Chillies usually fall within the 30-to-sixty-centimetre range (one to two feet) Read more

Are Malagueta & Piri-Piri Chillies the same?

Solving the mystery

The Piri Piri or African devil is one of my favourite Chillies. It has great flavour and has a hot, pleasant bite. It is used among many other uses in cooking to make Portuguese favourites, like Piri-Piri chicken, prawns, sauce and Piri Piri oil. It is a favourite in South Africa, Angola, Mozambique and many other Portuguese speaking parts of the world.

One thing that I have always found fascinating is the relationship between the Piri- Piri Chillies and the Malagueta Chillies from Brazil. I have known they are distant cousins, but which came first? The Malaguetas or the Piri- Piri. There is no doubt the Portuguese who introduced the Malaguetas to Africa, but where did they encounter Malaguetas for the first time? Did they find them in Brazil when they discovered the country, or was it somewhere else?

To answer this question, I decided to do some investigation. I put on my detective’s cap. Chief inspector Morich was on the case. It was time to solve the mystery of the Malaguetas and Piri- Piri Chillies. And what an investigation it would turn out to be!

The first thing I investigated was what the similarity is between Malaguetas and Piri Piri Chillies. I wanted to find just how close they are. After all, Chillies grown in different environments (even if they start the same) may develop different qualities. They may differ in taste, size, and pungency. Was this the case with Malaguetas and Piri- Piri Chillies? I certainly wanted to find out.

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Corn Flour Tortillas

Corn four tortillas for Mexican recipes

Ingredients

To make ten cornflour tortillas, you will need one cup of instant gluten free masa corn flour, three-quarters of a cup of hot tap water and a third of a teaspoon of salt.

Method

Before beginning  to make the tortillas cut the plastic into two disks the same size as the tortilla press. These will prevent the dough from sticking to the press .  Use the thickest plastic you have.

  1. To make the tortillas mix all the ingredients together and knead until you have reached a dough the consistency of play-dough. Add more water or flour as the case may be to achieve this
  2. Place a damp kitchen towel over the dough and let it prove for twenty to thirty minutes.
  3.  Divide the dough  into pieces  about an ounce in weight. Roll into balls
  4. Line the bottom of the press with one round of plastic. Place a dough ball on top of this. Flatten the ball slightly with the palm of your hand. Now place the other round of plastic on top of that. Top it with the other round .
  5. Clamp the two halves of the tortilla press together. The press will flatten the dough into a  perfectly round tortilla
  6. Remove from the press and lift the tortilla from the plastic pieces into the palm of your hand.
  7. Heat the pan and drop the tortilla while holding it palm up into it, starting with one edge and then slowly lowering the rest of the tortilla until the pan until it lies flat in the pan. Be careful to do this in fluid motion as otherwise, the tortilla will stick to the pan.
  8. Cook for about 30 to forty-five seconds and then flip with a spatula.
  9. Cook for another sixty seconds and then flip again. The tortilla will start to bubble and rise. Press down on the tortilla with the spatula once or twice to pop the bubbles. Cook for about thirty  seconds and flip for the last time.
  10. Press down the tortilla with the spatula again. Little brown spots will appear after a couple of seconds.
  11. Remove from the pan and place into a dish that has been lined with a napkin. Wrap the napkin over the tortilla
  12. Continue to make the rest of the tortillas and place them one on top of the other in the dish, stacking and wrapping them with the napkin as you go.
  13. Once the tortillas have all been cooked, leave them wrapped in the napkin for fifteen to twenty minutes. This will make the tortillas soft and moist. For best results, allow cooling to room temperature

Wheat Flour Tortillas

Chilli Focus

How I use Chilli Focus

Chilli Focus is a liquid fertilizer I use to fertilise my Chillies at various stages in their development. I first use it when my seedlings have developed their true leaves. At this point, I pot on the seedlings into two-inch pots. I use my own potting mixture for potting on. The dosage I use for the seedlings at this stage in their development is 2.5 millilitres per litre of water. This is all the seedlings need, as they are still quite small. In addition to the nutrients Chilli Focus provides, the seedling also absorbs nutrients from the potting mixture.

I continue feeding the plants at this dosage until they need to be potted on again. This is when they have reached the same size as their pot. The same size as pot rule then applies, and I pot them into the next size up container

It is at this point that I up  the dosage of Chilli Focus to 5 ml per litre of water.  I water the seedlings with this strength solution every second watering.  This continues until the seeds have been transplanted into one lite container and ready to be hardened off.

After hardening off, I switch other fertilizers, as I believe they do a better job. The manufacturers claim you can use Chilli Focus right through the season without switching. They recommend changing the dosage to ten millilitres of Chilli Focus at the first sign of buds. They claim this dosage will be enough fertilisation to support the plant through blooming and fruiting

I am not saying this is wrong. However, when I compare the NPK of the fertilizer I switch to at this stage, there really is no comparison. At 10 millilitres per litre, Chilli focus has an NPK of roughly 5.5: 2: 8.8. The fertilizer I use has an NPK of 15 -15 -30. In my opinion, the higher phosphorus and potash content make all the different in encouraging blooming and fruit set

Final thoughts

I cannot recommend Chilli Focus highly enough for use until hardening off. It does a good job. So much so, I have written a page about it without any invitation from the manufacturers. The page was written of my own volition as a recommendation to help other Chilli growers. I believe it definitely improves Chilli growing.  Unless something else comes to my attention, Chilli Focus will be my standard for the purpose mentioned

 

Fertilising Chillies

When is fertilising Chillies first required?

The Chilli seeds I have recently started don’t need any fertilising. They were planted about a week ago and still need to germinate. So, will they need fertilisation after they sprout? The answer is a resounding no. Seedlings don’t need any fertilization until they have developed their first set of true leaves.

It is precisely for this reason that when you choose a seed starting mix, it should have as low an NPK as possible. I use my own seed starting mix to start seeds. It consists of seed-starting compost with an NPK of 3.4-1-1.5 and worm castings with an NPK of 1: 0: 0. This is pretty low, but even at these levels, the mix could be higher than it needs to be. The seedlings just don’t need any fertilising at all. They can feed themselves through nutrition stored in the endosperm of the seed. This nutrition will be enough until the seedling decides it requires further nourishment.

When this happens, the seedling will develop its first set of true leaves to begin photosynthesis. It will also expand its root system to extract nutrients from its growing medium. This is precisely when additional fertilisation needs to be added. Not too much though. Over-fertilising Chilles can be bad for seedlings. Caution needs to be exercised

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The best time to pot Chillies on

The same size as pot rule

Determining the best time to pot Chillies on can be done using the same size as pot rule. The basic principle of this rule is that when a plant reaches the same height as the pot, it should be potted on into the next size of container up.   The reason for doing this is to develop a plant’s root ball.  It is a rule that takes the guesswork out of deciding when a plant should be repotted.Time to go outside Chilli plantss

For example, once a seedling has germinated, once it develops its first set of true leaves, it should be transplanted into a plastic or fibre pot approximately 50mm high.  Once a plant reaches two inches in height, it should be potted on into a 75 or 80mm plastic or fibre pot.  The best time to pot on Chillies is definitely a month or two after they have germinated.  This is a crucial time in the seedlings development, and will determine how robust the plant will be. After that, plants should be transplanted into 130 cm (one litre) pots. The 130 mm pots can usually only be found in plastic.

It is at this stage that I stop potting on until the plant has been hardened off. The seedling will have reached the same size at this pot (or even taller) at the hardening off stage. However, it is best to restrict potting on at this time, so that the plants can completely develop their root balls.

After hardening off

Final potting on

After hardening off, the plant will be transferred to a bigger container.  This will be the container where the plant will spend the rest of the season. The container should  big enough to cater for the final size that the plant will grow to when it reaches maturity. The size of these pots may range from two litres to over 50 litres

In some dwarf varieties, the pot size may be as small as 2 litres (or even just kept in its one litre pot). However, when growing Chillies like Rocotos, you need a bathtub, barrel, or heavy pot of fifty litres (or more). A Rocoto can grow to over five feet tall and have a spread of over six feet (two meters). Placing it into anything smaller or lighter would have the wind toppling it over all the time.

To determine how big a plant will grow, do some research before starting. In my case, I rarely go above twenty-five litres irrespective of the variety.  By limiting pot size, it is a way to restrict growth. This will allow you to control the size to which plants will grow. In my instance, this is necessary, as otherwise my backyard would be overrun with Chillies. I often grow over fifty plants in any season.

I grow only in pots, but the same principle can be used for planting directly into the soil. Pot your seedlings on until they reach one litre pots. Allow the root all to develop until hardening off (in about May). Harden the plants off in the one litre pots, and then plant out into your garden or allotment. Make sure your fertilization is correct, and the plants will fly!

Finally

So what sizes are pots available in?  This useful guide will help in that regard. The list, however, only starts at 90mm. Sizes below are 50 mm and 75 mm pots, which are used in the first and second potting’s on.

Rocoto Chilles. Third potting on

Third potting on of a Rocoto

Rocky, the tallest of my Rocotos, has been potted on again.  This is his third repotting. His first was done in mid-December, when he was two inches tall. He was transplanted into 50 mm pots. A couple of weeks later, when he was three inches tall, he was potted on for the second time. He has now reached 4 inches tall, so has been potted into a 130 mm (one litre) pot. I followed the principles of my same size as pot rule to determine the correct time for potting on this Rocoto Chilli plant.

Rocco, another Rocoto, will also be potted on shortly. He is about three inches.The rest still have a while to go, but I can see these Rocotos being potted on in the next couple of weeks.

I have been impressed with how quickly my Rocotos have grown. They were planted in late November 2021. In addition to the ones mentioned above, all are at least two inches tall. When comparing them with other Chillies that were started at the same time or even earlier, they definitely stand out. They seem healthier and more robust than most of my other plants. This however is apparently not that uncommon. Rocotos are known to be cold weather resistant plants. They are also said to be exceptionally resistant to, resistant to diseases, infections, and pests. These are tough Chilli plants that can take a punch. There is no doubt about that!

With the biggest of my Rocotos already this big, it has got me thinking what will happen down the line. Come May, when I start hardening off, these plants will be far bigger. I don’t envisage these Rocotto Chilli plants being potted on again before then. However, once they are hardened off, I will have to decide on the size of the containers I will pot them on into.  Once I have done the final potting on, I will place the Rocotos outside for the rest of the season.

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Potting on of the Rocotos

First potting on

Two of my Rocoto Chillies have been potted on. Not for the same reason, though. One was repotted because it is developing its first set of true leaves and has grown taller than its “pot” (see final note). The second, however, was potted on simply because it was in the same space as the first. Somehow I managed to plant two seeds into the eggshell I used to start these seeds. Doing his is usually a standard procedure for me when I start seeds. I typically sow more than one seed into the pod or pellet I use to start seeds, because it is insurance against failed germination. However, in the case of the Rocoto, the seeds‘ quality was exceptional, and I decided to use only one.

This potting-on was an interesting one for me. It is the first time I have repotted from eggshells. It was a bit finicky, and next time I will do things slightly differently. The finickiness came from breaking the shell to do the repotting. Where previously with peat pellets, I would have repotted the seedling still in the pellet. Here, I had to break the shell before I repotted the seedlings.  I wet the soil in the eggshells before breaking them so that it would hold together. But obviously not enough. It broke up when I removed the shell, and I was left with two seedlings with not much soil around them. It made repotting somewhat more difficult. There was a silver lining to this, though. It certainly made separating the seedling easier. That both survived and have taken to their new containers quite  happily.

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Why are my leaves turning yellow?

Looking into yellowing

Even with the best care in the world, when growing Chillies, you will always have some new mystery appearing out the blue. For me, the latest is that a couple of my seedlings have developed yellow leaves. It is a bit strange, as it only involves three plants and has only happened in one growing station. It’s time to look into why this has happened.

My research has revealed that the causes of leaves turning yellow are wide and varied. Yellowing of leaves can be caused by factors such as nutrition, watering, disease, pests and temperature. Judging by what I have read, I don’t think it is disease that has caused the yellowing on my plants. On my plants, the leaves are yellowed on the outside. They are otherwise quite healthy. With diseases, it seems you need to look for a yellow to brown mottling and leaves to be wilting. Examples of these diseases are bacterial leaf spot, wilt and phytophthora blight.

Luckily, none of my plants have any of these symptoms, so I could only believe it had to be something else.  The only way to reach a final conclusion was by a process of elimination.  I examined each of the remaining potential causes and arrived at what I think is a logical finding. Here’s how I did it

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How tall should my Chilli plants be?

How tall should my Chilli plant be at this point the season

So where are we?

This is a question we all get to at some point in growing Chillies . To gauge how well your seedlings are doing, you might well want to ask how tall your Chilli plants  should be by now. There is no hard and fast rule but making a comparison with other Chilli growers may help

My Chillies are doing  reasonably well. Some are already going on two to  three inches high, which is a reasonable height for them to be right now. Soon, the “same size as pot rule “will apply.   Simply put, when my plants grow to the same height as the pot they are in, they get potted on.  In this way, the root ball  that has formed will have the freedom to grow bigger. This, in turn, will allow the plant to grow and get closer to the all-important fruit-bearing stage Read more